Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Cusco, Peru and the Sacred Valley (Peru Trip Part 3)


We left Arequipa at 8:30pm and rode overnight in a "Salon Cama" seat that laid back almost flat. 

This is a random picture I found online... I don't know this person... but that is what it looked like.

This time, after they served us a meal, they turned on that terrible Eddie Murphy movie where he can't say any more words or he will die... BUT dubbed in Spanish.  Turns out, the only thing more annoying than Eddie Murphy is Eddie Murphy dubbed in Spanish.  We pressed on however and after what was actually a decent night's sleep, arrived in Cusco at 6:30am.

We walked, rather than take a cab, to find our hostel to drop off our things and quickly found a place to eat breakfast to begin our day.  
Our first day in Cusco was spent walking around viewing the architecture, strolling through markets, and taking a city tour on an old-time tram (a trolley from the original public transportation of Cusco), which took us to corners of the city that are difficult to visit by foot. 

Michael has a love of fancy looking drinks.

Cuscoffe... so clever.. especially since coffee is not a Spanish word.



The women of Peru dress in beautiful colors and traditional clothing.  

San Cristobal



Cusco by night... and by rain.




 The following morning we got up early to take our day tour of the Sacred Valley which included visits to Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Urubamba and Chincero.  Not only was the day filled with stunning vantage points, but our tour guide filled us with her knowledge of Incan traditions and history (in both English and Spanish).

In one of the markets, a woman was weaving a beautiful tapestry (or blanket... I'm unsure).









Oh man... more stairs...

After climbing stairs... stairs... and more stairs...






The tour ended with a trip the "mas hermosa" Catholic Church in the entire Sacred Valley in the POURING rain.  (helloooo rainy season).  There were small children selling bracelets the moment you walked out of the church (in the rain), so obviously, my ability to say no is non-existent. I bought two different bracelets for the equivalent of 30 cents each and the little girl was so excited she "gifted me a puppet" also.  Preciosa.

We made it back to Cusco just in time for our "briefing" for our hike to Machu Picchu the next day.  We knew immediately that our trip was never going to be boring once we met the other people in our group.  (More on that later)  We went to bed early for our 3am wake up call with the kind of anticipation kids have for Disneyworld.  Stay tuned.




















Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Tacna and Arequipa (Peru Trip Part Two).

We woke up bright and early in Arica in order to catch our cab to Tacna, Peru.  Our cab driver that drove us from the airport to our hostel the evening before offered to take us across the border for a price that could only be explained, in the words of our hostel owner Ross, as "he must have REALLY wanted to go to Tacna."  It worked out well for us as we avoided having to cross the border on a bus, and we were stamped out, then in, and legally in Peru in no time.
It was a Sunday morning in the tiny town of Tacna, Peru, so obviously the only thing open was the bus terminal.  We arrived in Peru earlier than we had departed from Chile (thanks two hour time difference) only to discover that the first bus would could catch from Tacna to Arequipa didn't leave for 3 hours. We decided to explore Tacna, which took about 25 minutes and then we returned to the bus terminal to wait patiently in the shade for our bus to depart.
Mountain Art in Tacna


Photo shoot with my awesome backpack.

We boarded our double decker bus, anxious for the scenic 6 hour trip from Tacna to Arepuipa.  (I should mention that during breakfast in Arica at our hostel, Ross and another guy decided to fill our heads with all of the Peru bus trip horror stories they could think of... robberies, crashes into valleys... thanks guys.  Needless to say, every bus trip came with a slight bit of anxiety--- no worries Mom... we are fine).  Immediately, I realize that the bus ride is going to be less scenic than expected, and actually more terrifying as you peer off the edges of cliffs from the top floor of the bus and hear the honks of cars passing on roads that aren't always built for two cars at once.  Curtains... CLOSED!
It wasn't long before the bus entertainment began in the form of some strange science fiction/alien space-cop bad action movie dubbed in Spanish turned up to level 11.  Of course, every time we hit a bump, the DVD would stop and then start the movie over from the beginning.  Eventually, we made it through the entire movie (I say we, but my time was spent being totally engrossed in Gone Girl by Gillian Flynn... if you haven't read it... I'd recommend it). Anyway, we made it through the entire movie only to watch and hear the DVD menu which was about 12 seconds of some power Evanescence song por lo menos 75 TIMES!  The man in the front seat of the top floor began stomping his feet like a child until the bus stopped and the driver came up to the top floor to yell at him.  The driver discovered that the 14 year old kid that was supposed to be the "bus attendant" was sleeping, scolded him, and then we were on our way--- watching the SAME crazy alien dub-fest again.  Once it skipped and started over two more times, the kid changed movies to one with a lot of Asian actors (still some kine of terrible action movie where Jason Statham kills everyone) that were dubbed in Spanish with a Chinese accent....oh Peru... We love you already.

The "scenic" view.  I am confused by the fact that Peru and Chile are fighting over some of this.

As we got closer to Arequipa, it was much prettier.

Arequipa is the second largest city in Peru.  It is bustling with culture, which was evident immediately upon arrival.  The Plaza de Armas at night was stunning and we spent our evening walking around, eating our first Peruvian dinner and enjoying the cool weather.




We also tried (because you have to) Arequipa's beer.  It was less than stellar.

We were awoken by the sunrise at stupid o'clock the following morning.. AND some kind of cruel joke of a brass band playing in a school?? maybe across the street.  I will admit that my first thought wasn't "Why is there a band playing at 6am?", but was a mix of "Geez that is really out of tune... those folks need some articulation help like crazy bad...lip slurs are your friend... and there is indeed such thing as too much bass drum."  I was mainly disappointed that I couldn't see them, but between muffled announcements they played... for every bit of an hour.  (I was going to upload the video here, but it seems to be rejecting it... probably good for everyone's ears anyway).

Arequipa offers many different adventures that we didn't get to do this time around. In the morning, we strolled through a local market where people were eating breakfast next to the stands where you could buy half of a pig. We took a city tour on one of those obnoxious two story buses that was a great way to see the city quickly since we only had one day.  We watched a huanaco (type of llama) spit at a young man from New Zealand for being too tall, shook hands with a statue that is supposed to fill your pockets with money, ate "cheese icecream-- helado de queso", and saw Arequipa from many different unique and beautiful vantage points.  On our last stop, we rode horses through the countryside for about 25 minutes where my horse both tried to be the winner and stop for food every five seconds--- it made for an interesting ride.  

Plaza de Armas in daylight.

Alpacas in the park.


One of the volcanoes overlooking Arequipa.


We played the slugbug game... or "Poncho" in Peru, which quickly turned into interrupting your conversation every 3 minutes.  Peru is the land of llamas and VWs apparently.

Michael ordered a "Machu Picchu" to drink while people watching on the plaza.  It is terribly manly :).


Cobblestone!  yay!!


I'm still waiting for my pockets to mysteriously fill with money.

Cheese Icecream and more gorgeous scenery.




Texas roots... sure.

Our first impression of Peru was the traffic, and by traffic I mean lack of traffic laws, and by that I obviously mean, lights, signs, lanes are all suggestions that most people choose to just ignore.  The tiny cabs zip in and out of the VWs and old trucks emitting extreme amounts of exhaust.  Women traffic cops (they are all women) stand in skirts and heels blowing whistles, but not really changing the outcome of the flow of traffic.  Crosswalks are death traps and if you are of a heritage other than Peruvian, you will be honked at by every empty cab that drives by.  (Hey! Need a cab? repeat ad nauseum).  


We finished our bus tour, but obviously the bus broke down at the last stop.  The driver and the man in charge of those horses began a strange attempt to revive the bus with some kind of battery and a whole lot of banging that eventually somehow resulted in us being on our way in about 30 minutes.  We took one of those crazy tiny cabs to the bus terminal where we would catch our overnight bus to Cusco.  Before loading we had a Coca Tea and snack from a sweet Peruvian woman and prepared ourselves for the 10 hour bus ride through more crazy valleys still feeling the charm of Arequipa.  








Arica, Chile (Peru Trip Part One)

In proper Zenteno fashion, we decided at the last minute to take a 10 journey to Peru, specifically Machu Picchu, from Santiago.  I spent Tuesday researching specifics, and Michael spent Wednesday booking hostels (Spanish helpful) and we left Santiago the following Saturday morning. Yeah... that is how we roll.

I have to admit we had been discussing this trip for awhile, because the idea of being in South America without visiting one of the 7 wonders is absurd.  I contacted my well traveled friend Evelyn for some advice, which was super helpful, but since we waited until the last minute, we had some wide-awakenings.

For instance, we had originally planned to do the entire trip on buses--- but then we realized that a flight to Arica (the edge of Chile) took 3 hours, while a bus ride took 30, through the desert.  We intelligently decided to fly the first and last leg and skipped over the 30 hours of scenery that looked similar to this:


We spent the evening in Arica, a small beach town that used to belong to Peru. It has a certain amount of charm, with houses built into cliffs and beautiful ocean views. We walked down to the fisherman's warf where we saw one sea lion and many pelicans making themselves at home on the rocks.  We watched the sunset over the Pacific before heading into the "downtown" area where celebrations for Chile's "Teleton" were in full swing.  (Think Jerry Lewis... but Chilean).  Every motorcycle gang in Arica (which is apparently more than just 2) was gathered for some kind of ride to raise money.  We thought about ducking into the casino to win our bus ticket money for the next day until we saw that everyone entering was dressed to the nines, meaning our jeans and tshirts were NOT up to par.  We avoided that embarrassment by eating an empanada in the park before heading back to hang out at our hostel preparing for our border crossing the next morning.  









Arica in photos!  Next up... Tacna and Arequipa, Peru!





Giving Thanks

Thanksgiving Day came and went in Chile without the normal trip to Clyde, stalking of Black Friday adds with my crazy aunts and cousins (even though I never get up early, because.. please), and the food (and wine) coma I have come to love from Thanksgiving day at the Welch's house.  Wednesday, Michael and I made a trip to the store to buy the good sliced turkey from the deli and a can of green beans.  On Thursday, we made ourselves a turkey sandwich for lunch, skyped with Memaw, skyped with Tommy, went to Happy Hour a little later and high-fived one-another for a job well-done.
Since making the move to Chile, we both have reflected many times on how lucky we are in so many ways.  For me, even when I have had rough-ish days wondering if I will ever get to be fully independent again (as in, speak this language), I feel super blessed to be here in this wonderful country, taking advantage of time that many people never get in our work-driven world.  Here is just a small list of things I feel thankful for:


1. Happy, healthy families and friends.
2. Our terribly handsome god-sons (that we miss seeing everyday, but their parents keep us posted).
3. Skype, e-mail, and all that other crazy new-fangled technology that allows me to keep in touch with those family and friends as if we live 3 hours away.
4.  The Goethe Institute.... the German Institute where I took my Spanish classes.
5.  Cuevana TV... because we TOTALLY have already seen the third season of Downton Abbey... and it is good!
6.  My old Alamo kids having so much success (and the technology and people that allow me to properly stalk that progress as well)
7.  That Michael and I are great partner's in crime no matter where we are.  I'll also add that my brilliant husband has done more for his crazy independent wife in the last three months to help me adjust that most people would.  Well done, sir!  Well picked, me!
8.  A warm, wonderful Chilean family.
9. Great in-laws!  (We both say this about eachother's family all the time.... because some people have crazy in-laws... and somehow we missed that boat... and we are thankful, thank you very much).
10.  The opportunity to be here, and the freedom to explore and learn more about the world every single day.

I could go on and on... but you get the idea... we are blessed people.

Our Thanksgiving weekend was filled with more awesome-ness.  Saturday was the "Gobble Gobble" hash with our running group (where we were given hash names).  What happens at the hash stays at the hash, at least for this blog's purpose, but we did end up singing karaoke late into the night.  Oh yeah... we are thankful for this group for sure.


On Sunday, a couple, Mark and Jess, from this group are so thankful for, hosted a fabulous Thanksgiving for 20 expats.  It really was amazing the trouble they went to in order to make the day special and "traditional" for everyone.  They built a table in the living room that sat 20, prepared turkey with all of the fixings,and even played the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade in the background followed by the amazing "butt fumble" Jets game.
We sat around the table, inhaling the wonderful food, but once we came up for air, we all went around table saying what we were thankful for.  It was such a great moment comprised of so many smaller moments as everyone expressed their gratitude for their lives and for one-another.
Between dinner and dessert, we took a walk (a tradition Katy from Boston's family) before returning to play cards, laugh, and celebrate the holiday.  It wasn't home, but it was close, and for that we have to thank the many situations that brought us all to Chile.