Que ha estado pasando

A few weeks ago I had the most horrendous mutant Chilean stomach-bug that hit me just in time to derail all of the plans we had for the long weekend (including but not limited to a trip to the beach, a run in the country with the SHHH, and fun times with the family).  I ended up being sick for a record 4 full days, enough time to watch every single Harry Potter movie while fueling up on only Gatorade.  Needless to say, when I recovered, I was certainly ready to get back to having some fun.  

Last weekend we spent Friday evening first at an event for Notre Dame alum and then in the comuna of Nunoa with a girl from my Spanish class and her husband.  The Notre Dame event was really great to make some connections for possible "real" jobs, and exploring Nunoa was a great time.  On Saturday, we went to the Festival de Idiomas taking place in one of the many parks.  The Goethe Institute (where I am taking classes) was selling beer (silly Germans) while England was giving out tea and Japan was demonstrating some kind of martial arts.  Michael was around for awhile before he went to a studio downtown to play some music with his cousin German and company.  I stuck around for a few more hours on my own. 

The highlight of the festival for me was the performance from the Chilean Beatles cover band called Beetles con dos "E's".  They dressed the part and sang Beatles songs with a slight Spanish accent.  It was fantastic. They had the crowd singing along (Obviously EVERYONE loves the Beatles) and the call and response of "She loves you... Jeah Jeah Jeah" was so great!  They even referred to each other as John, Paul, George and Ringo.  I twisted and shouted and agreed enthusiastically when random people asked me "Esta muy bien, no?"

I met back up with Michael at a Jazz club in Barrio Bellavista call Thelonius for live Jazz music courtesy of the EU Jazz festival.  We heard two groups, one Chilean and one Swiss, both excellent.  

Sunday it rained all day and night, clearing away the smog and leaving the mountains with quite a bit of snow.  It was honestly like viewing the Andes in HD, so while waiting for the bus, I snapped a few pictures.

Not that you can tell by those pictures, but the weather has finally started getting warmer.  The stores are preparing for Summer and Christmas simultaneously which is just plain weird.  

This past Friday we made a Mexican fiesta for the entire family, complete with fajitas, salsa, beans, queso, gucamole and Corona.  I have no pictures (because they were on someone else's camera), but I assure you they LOVED it.  The jalapenos were a little hot for some, but they kept coming back for more.  

Saturday we got to return to SHHH for the Halloween run around Las Condes.  This picture is pretty terrible quality, but basically gringos in sort-of costumes running through the streets of Chile.  

This week is yet another public holiday/ long weekend.  Looking forward to celebrating the arrival of November in style.  

Tis the season for elections

'Tis election season y'all.  Yesterday was election day here in Chile and it marked the end of the campaign signs, chants, costumes, flags, etc. that we have become accustomed to seeing for the last month or so.  This is not a presidential election year, but the comunas were electing new "Alcaldes" (essentially mayors) and "Consejales" (basically city council members) and these people have been ever present every where you go.  There wasn't a median or street light that wasn't completely full of giant portable billboards sporting pictures of the candidates alone or with others whom I assume to be well-known public figures.  The poses were hilarious, the slogans ridiculous, and although I'll never understand the draw of destroying property for no reason, the vandalism was entertaining.  Every day faces were cut out, devil horns drawn, teeth blacked out and "mentiroso" stamped across their foreheads.  This election marked the first election in Chile that wasn't obligatory if you registered.  In the past if you registered to vote and then didn't show up, they would sent you a ticket.  Alcohol sales were prohibited beginning at 3am Sunday morning/Saturday evening, with the idea that everyone would have a good 8 hours to "sober up" before casting their ballot.. supongo.

Here are some of my favorite campaign moments that I managed to snap pictures of:

Obviously this guy is going to win my my support.  Notice how my hands are on my heart to show how much I know in my heart that this guy will bring joy and cool glasses to Las Condes.

You may think that those are real people, but in fact they are slightly bigger than life-size cutouts of some of the candidates out side of the pueblo Los Dominicos.  De La Maza is giving you a thumbs up (fives times in this photo alone) to let you know that he is a super cool dude.  Also notice the guy who didn't get the memo about wearing black pants.

My personal favorite.  This guy won.. which makes it even better.  Notice the mullet and rocker boots.  They really say.. "Let me represent you... Party On!!"  Also notice the sign for Sabat and Morris (Chilean names huh?) where the woman is staring adoringly at the man with the crooked smile.  

This sign is seriously the size of a car.  I assume it is his family, but I love that the little girl on the left is in fact eating a doughnut which was probably given to her to make sure stop crying.  The little boy at the back has some kind of pastry as well and is magically standing above everyone.  Professional photography at it's best.  

This is admittedly a terrible picture, but I'll paint it for you in words.  I came out of the metro station, heard drums, looked to my right and BOOM!!  1.  A person dressed as a cow in a pink dress.  2.  A person dressed as a dog basically "krumping" 3.  A guy dressed as a sad clown and 4.  a handful of people waving flags for Cata Real.  Obviously folks... Obviously.

Regina is flawless.  I hear her hair is insured for $10,000.  She also (like Mikayla Maroney) is simply unimpressed, and so am I.  I know... right?

Every street corner made me flashback to High School Marching band where you were always in danger of getting hit by a flag girl.  

Now that the election is over the streets seem much quieter and full of litter (because obviously there were wild celebrations and protests in the streets post vote counting).  Many of the races were very close, but just like all elections, even if 45% of the people wanted someone else... it appears that life will in fact go on.  Plus, I just wanted to vote for this guy :).

"We're not in "The South" anymore..."

Being in a new country obviously comes with a certain amount of culture shock.  Anyone expecting a new place to be the same as your old home is really only setting themselves up for disappointment.  Part of being in a new environment is taking the good along with the bad and adjusting, adapting, becoming accustomed to ... new customs.  Aside, from the obvious "shock" of a different language (although calling it a shock seems silly seeing as how one obviously KNOWS that when you move to Chile they will be speaking Spanish.. albeit a bizarre form of Spanish), and missing certain foods (I might stab a person for Rosa's), the biggest adjustment I am having to make is to accept the fact that even though geographically we are in the southern hemisphere, we are no longer in "the South."

I have lived my entire life until now in West Texas.  I have done a decent amount of traveling to the different corners of the United States where people are supposedly "unfriendly", only to find that although they may not greet you with "Howdy" everywhere you go, they are not inherently rude to strangers.  My experience so far in Chile has taught me that the things I grew up believing to be normal... you know... MANNERS, are not infact in existence everywhere.

NOTE: I AM NOT referring to Chileans that I have met (for instance the family and friends of family).  They are very warm people.  I am referring to how strangers deal with strangers and the common courtesies of society.

I know that a certain amount of anonymity exists in all big cities, mainly because it has to in order for efficiency alone, but having discussed these points with other gringos from large cities in the US, Austrailia, etc. , we all agree that in some aspects, Chile needs a charm class.

For example, the other day, I held a door for a 30-something male because he was about 6 feet behind me and it was an automatic decision to NOT let the door hit him in the face.  Apparently this was a very strange action on my part because the man, instead of nodding or issuing a short "Gracias", looked at me as if I had completely insulted his masculinity and the progress of his day.  HOW DARE I??  Needless to say one also should NEVER expect someone to hold the door for you, and should plan accordingly to avoid being caught in that awkward "the door is half shut" moment...

Dogs are more polite than people.  No kidding (I couldn't make this up if I tried), if you are walking on a sidewalk towards a dog coming from the other direction, it has happened multiple times that the dog steps to the side to allow you to pass and then, continues on his way.  People on the other hand will walk four across and glare at you when you need like 2 inches to pass on the right as if, again, you have been put on this Earth to derail their progress. 

The metro/micro is where, I predict, the world will eventually shut down.  It isn't even that people are so blissfully unaware, it is that they find themselves and their own agenda far more important than that of the other million or so people that also have things to do.  It also makes people forget things like "you shouldn't push old people" and "you shouldn't marinate in your cologne." 
In the mornings, the metro is full--- not "sigh.. no seats again", but "someone's phone is vibrating in their pocket and no one is sure who it belongs to because we are all up on eachother" full.  YET!!! For some reason, there still exists this machismo "bro" syndrome where some guys can ONLY stand directly infront of where the doors will open.  Most of them wear skinny jeans, scarves and blue tooth headsets... Obvio.

Permiso is the "excuse me" used when you need by.  I hear permiso no less than 20 times every morning as people struggle to past scarf-bro who has deemed his stop the only important one; however, even the most polite word when paired with shoulder jabs becomes less polite.  People tend to think permiso now grants them permission to do whatever they want.  It is like when kids say, "but I said please..." expecting that the magic word will grant them that pet tiger they want for Christmas.  When a person barrels through 10 people to get to the door of the metro when the approaching stop is the LAST ONE and EVERYONE has to get off, it makes me want to say quite forceably, "Permiso this!!" coupled with an elbow jab.

My FAVORITE public transportation moment is that moment when you are trying to get off the bus, you know, through the exit doors, and there is a mob of greedy animals trying to "sneak" on the bus without paying BEFORE they let anyone off.  Folks, if you will chill for 5 seconds, THEN you can commence with your master plan to save 500 pesos, which will eventually cause the price of public transportation to rise for those of us that, well pay, and need to get OFF the bus. 

Also, I find it incredibly difficult, and infact against my upbringing to ignore the needs of older people.  I see an old woman with a cane trying to board a bus, I want to back up, give her space to do so, and help if she needs it.  The five-inch space I let form between the old woman and myself however, instead invites 6 other people to crowd her and then, obviously, push through to board the bus infront of me and the little old lady.  Last Friday, I also watched a man that could barely walk, have to stand on a bus for a good 20 minutes because the able-bodied 30-40 year old men and women needed to sit EVEN after he asked one for her seat.  She denied him... as in, "Hmmm.. maybe you shouldn't be so old."

The exception to my observations in Chile is the politeness of teenagers.  (Yet another red flag that we are no longer in America).  Kids say thanks to the bus drivers, give up their seats for just about anyone, greet every adult when they come in a room--- it is incredible.  I just can't figure out what happens after then age of 16. 

I am trying to blend in.  That is the point of traveling and living abroad, learning about differences in culture and the way they live their lives.  I know I will pick up WAY more positive than negative things from the people of this great country, but as far as my manners go--- I think I'll try not to lose my kind regard for strangers and just continue to smile, say thanks, hold doors and avoid pummeling old people. 

Learning a New Language: Part Two

I never realized just how extensive my vocabulary is in English until I started  trying to express myself  in Spanish.  It can be so frustrating knowing that every Spanish-speaker that you meet doesn't really get a true impression of you.  Honestly, I speak Spanish like a child, and not a smart one.  When I write in Spanish, I cringe at the sentence structure and idea development  that frankly reminds me of that journal from 1st grade I found while cleaning out closets at my parents' house.  There is a quote about the journey and the destination that I'm sure applies here... as in it takes time.. yeah whatever.

New points:

When in doubt.. Spanish up that English word.
It actually works more often than not.  You don't always guess correctly, but you guess close enough that you can communicate and be corrected.  Want an adverb?  Take off that -ly and add -amente.  Add an o to the end, or -acion in a pinch.  Sometimes you can just pronounce English words with Spanish vowel sounds. (those are my faves).  It is amazing the correct words you can learn by not being afraid to say the wrong ones.  For someone that hates to be wrong, this can be incredibly humbling.  I am definitely having to learn to accept the fact that I don't have all of the answers.


Learning a language is like riding a roller coaster, as in today I might be speaking like a 3rd grader and tomorrow I'll be back to speaking less than little Antonia (who is 3).  Luckily, I have classmates that can relate and it is apparently normal.  I am looking forward to the moment when my lows aren't quite so frustrating.

Trying to think in a language is as important as trying to speak it.
I have officially started dreaming in a weird Spanish/English mix.  I actually think I may remember things in my dreams that I don't remember when I'm awake.
Trying to translate in your head is impossible and ridiculous.  My ears are getting used to the sound of Spanish and my brain is getting used to responding without the trip from Spanish to English then English to Spanish. Progress folks!

Anyway-- Since my brain is so full of gramatica, I sometimes choose the wrong form out of the pack, but it is getting better and today I even fooled a couple strangers into thinking that I speak the language... Sure... I just asked for a bottle of water and paid for my groceries.. but baby steps.  :)

Gay Pride, Pantalones, and a Dog

One of the hardest parts of making the decision to jump countries was knowing that you are leaving all of the friends and family that you love behind.  Although Skype, Facebook, and all of those other new-fangled technologies that make communication super easy are wonderful, it still isn't the same thing as real life social interaction.
Obviously Michael knew coming in that we would be lucky to have a wonderful extended family that, for some reason, loves you no matter what (and seems to love me even though they know so little about my personality because of my lack of Spanish skills).  (Seriously, I think they  may even think me to be shy, which is a gross misrepresentation... that I plan to fix a little each day).  It certainly makes the transition smoother and less lonely than it would be otherwise.  

Last weekend, we ventured to our second "Hash" with the Santiago Hash House Harriers... a self proclaimed "Drinking group with a Running Problem" full of expats from various corners of the world...and from what I can tell so far, definitely our "people" here in Santiago.
It can be difficult coming into a group that is already established, where everyone already has their friends, memories, etc. but props to these "hashers" not just for being fun and intelligent, but overall good people.  Everyone was super welcoming.. I don't think I can say that enough.

Anyway... So basically, a couple members of the group lay a trail for everyone to follow in a different part of the city every two weeks.  Last weekend, we had a fantastic run through El Centro, scaling Cerro Santa Lucia and coming directly into contact with Santiago's Gay Pride Parade (in the middle of our trail).  I have to admit, the techno music and rainbow flags did nothing but pump us up as we made our through the streets.  It was great to see so many people marching (and dancing) for equal rights. (Although, when you think about how many people actually live in Santiago the turnout seems more like a starting point... but I can get behind that).

After the run, we returned for the Hash Asado where we ate, drank and conversed with all of these fine people.  We decided to join a few people at a club downtown once it was over.  Luckily for me, one of the girls offered to lend me a dress and shoes (so I didn't have to hit the town in sweatpants), and even luckier still... we are the same size.  Unfortunately, however, she had nothing for Michael to change into, so when we arrived at the club, the bouncer swiftly told him "No puede entrar sin pantalones".
We have arrived at the "pantalones" portion of this story.  It really just adds another gold star to the people we have met (a total of twice at this point).  One of the fellas we were with has a grand idea... He has a friend that lives about 5 minutes away.  Said friend might be awake at 12:30am.  Said friend might lend you some pants.  So... that fella walks to a random guy's house at 12:30 and comes back with a pair of pants that Michael couldn't have purchased better in a store.  We cut infront of the now epic line to get in the club.. point at the pants and voila!  We are in for a night of dancing to American-Chilean-techno fusion... No se, but it was fun.

When we left at around 4:30am, there was an even more ridiculous line to get in the front door.  These Chileans don't waste a second of their weekend doing something silly like "sleeping."
We grabbed some kind of fried-awesome on the street corner for less than $1 and caught the bus to head home.  At one stop, a dog hopped on the bus amongst the crazies and proceeded to lay on my feet, until another guy decided to pick him up and put him under his seat.

We will call this "the new normal", and I think I can get used to this.

Learning a New Language--Part One

First a few disclaimers:

1.  I know I am not the first person in the world to learn a new language.  I realize that people do this every day, and that some people have managed to learn 5 languages throughout their lifetime.

2. When I say that things can be difficult or bizarre, I don't mean to complain at all.  I am throroughly enjoying the process and the daily marathon brain workout.

3.  These are purely MY observations, based soley on my opinion  and how I feel... not scientific fact.

Now...

I have been in Chile for right at a month, dropped in a close-to sink or swim situation.  Having a person legally bound to you that is fluent in both English and Spanish definitely helps with complete overload, but in the past month I have definitely had to get used to a few things that come with not knowing the language.
Anyone who knows me at all knows that I rarely (with the exception of stupid teacher inservice) sit in a room without contributing to the conversation.  Even if it is a topic that I know very little about, I will offer the occaisional encouragement or affirmation to those speaking.  September 2012 was a very quiet month for me.  Somedays I sat in rooms full of conversation for hours without saying more than 3 or 4 sentences.  At every moment, I am listening so intently, hoping that context clues will help me commit more vocabulary words to memory, and crossing my fingers that I didn't miss the keyword that makes the concept being discussed the exact opposite of what I thought they meant.  Chileans speak, forgive me, but FREAKING FAST.  This causes me to be about 3 sentences behind at all times when trying to understand them, which in turn causes me to look like a deer in headlights when they ask me a question and I am still deciphering the what I assume to be "sentence" that they said 20 seconds ago, but sounded to me like one giant word.  Then, OBVIO, I have to ask them to repeat it, and they assume I understood nothing--which isn't the case-- Rinse and Repeat. 
Somedays I can understand everything and the very next day, I catch about half.  Just like anything, I know you can't just add water, but that would be SO awesome. 

I am enrolled in intensive Spanish classes which is awesome for learning so much grammar that it explodes out of your ears.  My classes are taught entirely in Spanish, which is definitely something those of us that grew up in the states have never had to experience.  Honestly, this class would be far less effective if they were explaing Spanish to me in English (which seems bizarre), but it gives me hours a day where I hear CORRECT Spanish.  I also feel that I am getting a better handle on language concepts in general.  The hard part is, taking the correct Spanish outside of the classroom and trying to understand slang.  For your entertainment... a few things the average Chilean does to make Spanish impossible to understand (at first).
Take the word:  Gracias, for example.  They don't pronounce the S as much as they let it aspirate, and they do this with all words ending in s.
Take the word: Cansado (tired)... That d is only there for looks in Chile-- Cansao (ow)
adding "ito" to the end of everything.  It isn't a plato.. it is a platito.  Your name isn't Francisco, but Francisquito. 
There are so many more, but I'll spare you.  Yet another disclaimer:  I know that we are just as bad (especially in the South) at making up pronunciations and words in English.

Pronunciation can be challenging, because there are just some sounds that don't exist to my brain, but I am proud to say that I have now been told multiple times that I don't have an American accent... that I sound more like a French person--- so #Winning.  Spanish with a Texas accent is ridiculous, so I'm glad I can fool everyone so far. 

Now for a small rant.  No one else in my class is from an English speaking country, YET they all have at least a working knowledge (enough to converse) in English.  Seriously!!  I am the silly American that knows only one langauge... and that is unfortunate.  We should do a better job of langauge education.  (I will try in my future years as a band director to encourage foreign language RIGHT UNDER music :).

I purchased the first Harry Potter in Spanish and have been reading it very slowly for the last couple of weeks.  I have learned quite a few phrases and vocabulary words, some more useful than others.  (I don't know that the word for owl, wand, and "he who must not be named" are street useful, but the word for muggle is muggle... so there ya go).

This is just the beginning and I am sure there will be many followups to this blog (a series if you will) as I continue to grow in Spanish.  Until then, Hasta luego. 

Fiestas Patrias AKA Independence gone crazy

We just emerged from the long weekend that was "dieciocho" weekend.  All of Chile has been celebrating their independence since Friday, and some people won't quit until they have to go back to work on Monday.  Friday afternoon on the news they showed the mass exodus from Santiago as people flocked to beaches, lakes, etc for their celebrations.  We stayed in Santiago and I would say definitely "experienced" the craziness.
I had more people ask me over the last few days what the 4th of July is like in America, to which I replied "mas tranquilo que aqui", as in, most people only get one day off of work, and while we drink beer and barbeque, it is far less debaucherous overall.  A few years back, I went to the ultimate 4th of July celebration in Boston, and I would still say---calm in comparison.
The weather for dieciocho, for lack of a better word, kind of sucked.  It was cold and rainy for days, but that doesn't really seem to deter the people of Chile.  The preparations around town have been happening since we arrived here.  You would be hard pressed to find a home, building, park or car that wasn't sporting la banderita de Chile.  Actually, as we drove to an Asado on Sunday, little Antonia began pointing them out "Ese, ese, ese, ese"  literally every two seconds.  Obviously, Chileans are very proud of their country, but from what I have experienced so far, it isn't in a "our country is better than your country so there" kind of proud, but more of a "I live here in an independent country with lots of things to offer, isn't that cool?" kind of proud.  Worth noting :).
We experienced a mix of at home asado and out on the town fondas.  My Spanish teacher told me that the average Chilean gains 3 kilos over the celebrations, and I believe it.  SO MUCH FOOD!! annndd.. drinking.    Over the next few days, I am only allowed water and vegetables to counteract all of the Chicha, Terremoto (Earthquake... a drink with some kind of wine, pineapple icecream and grenadine), Cerveza, Vino, Choripan, Carne, Carne and MORE Carne, and Empanadas.  Seriously.. everything was delicious, but wow.
Needless to say, even though the highway was packed with cars on Friday, there were still PLENTY of people in Santiago to partake in all of the celebrations.  The 19th is Military Day (how convenient), and there was a fantastic parade to celebrate every branch, including the police officers.  Side note:  No one is allowed to make anyone work on ANY of these national holidays.  There was actually a story on the news about it-- if you made your employees work and got caught, you got fined.  Anyway, here is photo evidence of the fun.

The family made homemade empanadas.  They were, obviously fantastic.  The traditional kind called pino has some kind of onion/meat mix with part of a hardboiled egg and one olive.

Salud!

Estadio Nacional Fonda en Nunoa-- Chicha, Rodeo, y diversion OH MY!!

This game is your run of the mill carnival game in which you play "ring toss" on to wine, beer, soda.  This game was set up every 15 steps.   You also got 20 tries for the equivalent of $1.  Obviously, we still didn't win.

 I saw this on one of those "Bizarre Foods" shows at home awhile back.  "Sandwich Potito"= "Butt Sandwich"... I laugh every time, so we took photos.  I didn't eat it this time-- honestly, it had a really distinctive smell that wasn't near as good as all of the other food being served.  Are we adventurous enough to eat "butt".?.. I guess we'll see.

People playing foosball...Taca taca

On the 19th.. Military Day, we went to Parque O'Higgins to partake in the festivities.  The first part of this actually reminded me of the people aligning themselves along the river in Boston awaiting the fireworks... picnicing etc.  The one clear difference were the people flying kites.  Chilenos love their volantines.  There were hundreds in the air, many "fighting" one another by trying to snap the string.  It was a pretty cool sight.  We got to see part of the parade, which gave me my marching band fix for the time being.  All of the military was dressed in regalia, INCLUDING high heels for the lady-cops.  WHAT?  That hardly seems fair, but there ya go.

The president is somewhere in this picture. Look verrry closely.  

Sweet glasses bro!

 

Somewhere there are many sad children because their kites are in this tree.  

Check out those lines!  And we are in step!  Well done!

 Watching the parade was very pleasant and fun.  People watching was enjoyable.  When we decided to leave and made the choice to walk through the "carnival" area is when I had my first real unenjoyable  moment since arriving here.  It was SO full of people that you moved with the current... until you didn't and had to force yourself through.  I was so afraid that one of the many small children that parents were trying to maneuver was doing to trip and be trampled.  There were drunk people stone cold passed out on the ground and people just laughed and stepped around them.  There were so many smells, sounds, and sights that I was on definite sensory overload.  That was definitely a "see it one time" kind of thing.  Once we escaped the masses, we rewarded ourselves with yet another empanada--- all was right with the world.

Basically, my first dieciocho was a success.  A huge thanks to family that made sure we had the right experiences.  I am hoping that the flags don't go away.  Honestly, seeing them everywhere, sometimes I feel right at home looking up at the lonestar.  Viva Chile!  God Bless Texas!  Party on y'all!  :)